Now: San Francisco's back yard, lovingly cultivated in a loose patchwork of neighborhood gardens and stairways by residents. Bernal Hill offers one of the city's landmark wraparound views. Alemany Farmer's Market (Saturday) and Flea Market (Sunday) deliver with small-town heart. Homes are modest in style compared to central areas of city.

Then: Holly Park land was donated to the city in 1862 and gradually upgraded as homes appeared through the late 1800s. The neighborhood grew around pasture hill following 1906 earthquake.